Object Details
Maker
Wolof artist
Label Text
The influence of Portugal and France has long been apparent in Senegalese goldwork, with designs being imitated as early as the 17th or 18th century by both Wolof and Tukulor artists. The basket of flowers design has been a popular design throughout this century, and was often part of the ngeganol collection given to a woman by her husband at their wedding. It may be from St. Louis, a town located at the mouth of the Senegal River, which during colonial times was a noted center for the production of jewelry such as this.
For Senegalese women, the ideal necklace incorporates three pendants; one larger and central one with two complementary, smaller pendants flanking it. The central portion of the necklace is known as a kostine, and requires a great deal of skill and craftsmanship to create the delicate but ornate filigree of the flowers, coupled with the woven basketry design. According to Marian Johnson, it is known as a complet in French, because it is so complete that no other jewelry is needed to be worn.
Description
Tukulor "gold" (probably a mixture of silver and copper) necklace with a "basket-of-flowers" (paniers des fleurs) pendant on a gold chain. The main pendant is a basket crowned with six large florettes, four of which are heavily filigreed. Five pierced/openwork and filigreed elements dangle off the bottom of the basket, with two more on the sides of the basket, one on either side. The main pendant is connected to the chain via large filigreed florettes, one on either side. Hook-and-eye closure.
Provenance
Marian Johnson, purchased in Dakar, Senegal, 1963-late 20th century to 2012
Exhibition History
Good As Gold: Fashioning Senegalese Women, National Museum of African Art, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C., October 24, 2018-February 2, 2020; North Carolina Museum of Art, Raleigh, September 16, 2020-January 3, 2021
African Mosaic: Selections from the Permanent Collection, National Museum of African Art, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C., November 19, 2013–August 12, 2019 (installed November 7, 2014-August 1, 2017)
Published References
Maples, Amanda, Ashby Johnson, Marian, and Dumouchelle, Kevin D., 2018, Good As Gold, Washington, D.C.: NMAfA, Smithsonian, p. 21, 64, illustrated p. 18, 30
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Credit Line
Gift of Dr. Marian Ashby Johnson
Date
1930s-1940s
Object number
2012-18-4
Restrictions & Rights
Usage conditions apply
Type
Jewelry
Medium
Gold-plated silver alloy
Dimensions
Pendant: 11.1 x 9.5 x 2.9 cm (4 3/8 x 3 3/4 x 1 3/16 in.)
Chain with florettes: 49.5 cm (19 1/2 in.)
Geography
Senegal
See more items in
National Museum of African Art Collection
Data Source
National Museum of African Art
Topic
Adornment
Female use
male
floral
flower
Link to Original Record
Record ID
nmafa_2012-18-4