Object Details
Maker
Tukulor artist
Wolof artist
Label Text
Popular among fashionable Wolof and Tukulor women of Senegal during the 1940s and 1950s, these hair ornaments are worn in clusters of three on either side of the head, and sewn into an elaborate wig known as a gossi. This particular ornament, known as koulalat, would be the central element, flanked by two smaller, pear or globular-shaped ornaments known as cadias. All three incorporate delicate granulation, a technique of applying tiny balls of metal, known as thioup-thioup to hammered sheet metal. Because the Tukulor tended to favor the use of granulation to a greater degree, this hair ornament is likely Tukulor.
The holes pierced into the surface of this hollow ornament allow for ventilation during creation, but have become an important part of the style.
Description
Round/globular gold-plated silver alloy hair ornament with decorative layers of granulated surface, flattened round beads, topped by a raised, tiered floral projection. The hair ornament has a semi-flat back covered with slightly raised, but empty, circles, or rings. Projections of small florettes with granules grace the circumference of the ornament and the top of the circumference surface is pierced with almond-shaped holes.
Provenance
Marian Johnson, purchased in Dakar, Senegal, 1963-late 20th century to 2012
Exhibition History
Good As Gold: Fashioning Senegalese Women, National Museum of African Art, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C., October 24, 2018-February 2, 2020; North Carolina Museum of Art, Raleigh, September 16, 2020-January 3, 2021
African Mosaic: Selections from the Permanent Collection, National Museum of African Art, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C., November 19, 2013–August 12, 2019 (installed February 13, 2015-August 1, 2017)
Published References
Maples, Amanda, Ashby Johnson, Marian, and Dumouchelle, Kevin D., 2018, Good As Gold, Washington, D.C.: NMAfA, Smithsonian, p. 69, illustrated p. 70
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Credit Line
Gift of Dr. Marian Ashby Johnson
Date
1940s-1950s
Object number
2012-18-6
Restrictions & Rights
Usage conditions apply
Type
Jewelry
Medium
Gold-plated silver alloy
Dimensions
H x W x Diam: 4.2 x 5.1 x 5.1 cm (1 5/8 x 2 x 2 in.)
Geography
Senegal
See more items in
National Museum of African Art Collection
Data Source
National Museum of African Art
Topic
Adornment
Female use
male
floral
flower
Link to Original Record
Record ID
nmafa_2012-18-6