Hair ornament

Popular among fashionable Wolof and Tukulor women of Senegal during the 1940s and 1950s, these gold hair ornaments are worn in clusters of three on either side of the head, and sewn into an elaborate wig known as a gossi. This particular ornament, known as koulalat, would be the central element, flanked by two smaller, pear or globular-shaped ornaments known as cadias. All three incorporate delicate granulation, a technique of applying tiny balls of metal, known as thioup-thioup or pep to hammered sheet metal without the use of solder. Instead, the tiny balls are glued to the sheet metal using gum Arabic and a copper hydroxide solution. The piece is allowed to dry, then heated very slowly, causing a molecular exchange and fusion of the tiny surface decoration onto the sheet metal. Because the Tukulor tended to favor the use of granulation to a greater degree, this hair ornament is likely Tukulor.

The holes pierced into the surface of this hollow ornament allow for ventilation during creation, but have become an important part of the style.

Round/globular gilt silver (gold wash silver; or a mixture of silver and gold) hair ornament with decorative layers of granulated surface, flattened round applied globules, topped by a raised, tiered floral projection. The hair ornament has a semi-flat back covered with slightly raised, but empty, circles, or rings. Projections of four small florettes grace the circumference of the ornament and the top of the circumference surface is pierced with almond-shaped holes. Five circular holes are pierced into the bottom of the ornament.

Marian Johnson, purchased in Dakar, Senegal, 1963-late 20th century to 2012

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